BOLIVIAN LOCOTO SALSA, LLAJWA

“Llajwa” is the ubiquitous, pungent table sauce of Bolivia where

the Rocoto, (called Locoto there), is king of all peppers. I went into

several kitchens in both homes and hotels where this salsa is made

fresh daily to see just how it was made. In most homes it is still

made with the batan, or grinding stones. In more modern kitchens

a blender is used but this is always recognizable because the sauce

is smoother and somewhat frothy.

Makes about 1 Cup

3 Roma tomatoes, seeded and quartered

1 small red onion, or leek, chopped

2 rocotos, seeded and chopped; or 4 serranos or

jalapeños, seeded and chopped

Juice of 1 fresh lime

Several cilantro (fresh coriander) sprigs

Salt to taste

Place all ingredients in a food processor; pulse several times

until it is almost a purée but still has some texture. Take

care not to over-process which makes the sauce frothy.

LEMON AJÌ MARMALADE

A refreshing flavor change from the original orange marmalade.

Makes 10 cups

6 large, yellow and or orange Bell Peppers, seeded

and chopped

12 Lemon Ají peppers or small yellow chili peppers,

minced

8 lemons, peeled and juiced

2 cups water

½ teaspoon baking soda

10 cups of granulated sugar

¼ teaspoon salt

2 6-ounce pouches of liquid fruit pectin (Certo®)

Paraffin

Score citrus skin in quarters and remove; cut skinned fruit

in half and juice. Set juice aside. Cut excess white from

peel; thinly slice peel in food processor. Place lemon peel

and soda, with enough water to cover in a covered

saucepan; bring to a boil and simmer until rinds are tender

(20 to 30 minutes). Remove from heat, drain and rinse.

Place lemon pulp in a food processor; puree. Place fruit,

peel, and peppers in a large bowl and mix—there should

be 6 cups. Divide mixture into two 3-cup portions to be

cooked separately. Better results are obtained when mak-

ing preserves by keeping your “batches” small.

Place 3 cups of mixture in a 6 to 7-quart non-reactive

pot; add 5 cups of sugar. Add 1 cup of water, salt, and

lemon juice to citrus peel and pepper mixture. Bring to a

boil over high heat; reduce heat; simmer for 5 to 10 min-

utes. Raise heat to high; bring to a rolling boil that won’t

stir down; continue boiling and stirring for 2 to 3 minutes.

Add 6 ounces of pectin. Let marmalade return to a boil;

boil for exactly 1 minute. Remove from heat. Skim foam,

if necessary. Pour hot marmalade to within ½-inch of rim

of hot sterilized jelly jars. Wipe rims with damp paper

toweling. While still very hot pour on a ¼-inch layer of

melted paraffin (see P. 182). Put scalded lids on jars;

tighten; place on a rack to cool. Repeat process using

other half of fruit, sugar, and pectin. Keep tightly closed in

refrigerator once opened. Use it up so that it won’t turn to

sugar, but if it does, melt marmalade in a saucepan over

low heat or in microwave; use it for a glaze with meats.

Additional chili peppers can be used for a more pungent

“TO DIE FOR” GARLIC SAUCE

This sauce evolved when I tried to duplicate a Canary Island

sauce served in the Tic Tac Restaurant in Puerto De La Cruz,

Tenerife—but this is even better.Although I was told the original

had a mayonnaise base, this one will not defeat the novice, as

making mayonnaise is apt to do. In fact, you may never use may-

onnaise again. It is good on almost anything, all you need is a

spoon, but don’t count calories. Use it like a spread on crusty

bread, for a vegetable dip, on almost anything but desserts. Not

only does the cilantro make it a delicate green color but it also

keeps the oil-egg emulsion from breaking and it takes the garlic

odor from your breath.

Makes 2 Cups

1 whole pod of garlic, peeled and finely chopped

(yes, entire pod, not just a clove. Smaller pods are

more flavorful)

2 eggs

½ teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 cup fresh cilantro leaves, packed

1 green serrano or jalapeño, stemmed and seeded

1 slice French type bread, dried, crust removed

1 cup canola oil (olive oil is too strongly flavored)

½ cup light sour cream or yogurt

Put first 6 ingredients in a blender jar; pulse until puréed

and smooth. Add bread; pulse until well mixed. Remove

center cup from lid of blender. Using a funnel, slowly drip

oil into blender.When sauce thickens, remove funnel; add

sour cream. Pulse to blend. Taste to adjust seasonings; add

more chili pepper, lemon juice, or salt as desired. If sauce is

thicker than desired, stir in a little water to reach desired

consistency. Put in a bowl and serve as a table sauce or as a

dip on appetizer table.

MICROWAVE BROWN ROUX

If you have ever made traditional brown roux, this roux is a

shortcut worth trying.The cooking times are only suggestions be-

cause microwave ovens vary.

Makes 2 Cups

1 cup vegetable oil

2 cups bread flour

In a 1-quart microwave-safe dish mix together oil and flour

until well combined. Microwave mixture, at high power,

whisking at 2-minute intervals for 8 minutes. If roux is not

a dark reddish-brown color like a chestnut shell, microwave

at high power, whisking and checking color at 1-minute

intervals, until roux reaches desired color.

MOJO ROJO (RED SAUCE)

I don’t believe a meal table on any of the seven Spanish Canary

Islands would be complete without a bowl of mojo on it. It is

eaten on everything and at every meal. Its consistency and pun-

gency can be adjusted to your liking and it varies from place to

place, but the basis is always peppers—both sweet and pungent.

Makes 1 Cup

2 tablespoons cider or wine vinegar

2 tablespoons olive oil

6 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped

1 teaspoon cumin seed, toasted

1 teaspoon oregano

2 cups red Bell Pepper, diced

2 teaspoons almonds, blanched, sliced and toasted

1 cup dried or toasted French bread or croutons

1 teaspoon cayenne pepper, or to taste

2 tablespoons sweet paprika

Sea salt, to taste

Water as needed for desired consistency

In the jar of a blender, put vinegar, oil, garlic, cumin, and

oregano. Pulse until contents are well blended. Add Bell

Pepper and almonds; pulse until completely pureéd. Add

bread, cayenne, and paprika. Add salt to taste. Pulse until

well mixed and smooth. Add water and/or oil to thin if

desired. Some make this very pungent by adding more

chili pepper. Serve it in a bowl with a spoon as a ubiqui-

tous table sauce or as a dip on an appetizer table.

JAVANESE SAMBAL

Sambals are pungent chili pepper sauces indigenous to Indonesia

but they vary from island to island.

Makes 2 Cups or More

3 whole coconuts, peeled

2 fresh green chili peppers (Thai, serrano)

JAVANESE SAMBAL

Sambals are pungent chili pepper sauces indigenous to Indonesia

but they vary from island to island.

Makes 2 Cups or More

3 whole coconuts, peeled

2 fresh green chili peppers (Thai, serrano)

EASY PEPPER SAUCE PICKLES (UNCOOKED)

These will surprise you.These simple, very crisp pickles keep well

and make great hostess gifts.

Makes 8 Pints

1 gallon sliced “hamburger” dill pickles

5 pounds sugar

12 ounce bottle chili pepper sauce

3 tablespoons pickling spice

4 teaspoons mustard seeds

Drain pickles well. Use the glass gallon pickle jar; return

sliced pickles to it in alternate layers with sugar and pep-

per sauce. Screw lid on tightly. Allow to sit for 1 week.

Each day turn jar of pickles upside down so that one day

they sit with top up; next day bottom is up. After a week,

remove pickles; pack them into sterile jars to which have

been added 1 teaspoon of pickling spice and ½ teaspoon

mustard seed. Put scalded lids on tightly. Refrigerate

tightly closed once opened; they keep almost indefinitely.

TEX-MEX ENCHILADA SAUCE

The browned flour is a tasty Texas twist.

Makes 3 to 4 Cups

8 anchos, guajillos or dried red ‘New Mexican

Chiles’ or some of each

2 tablespoons ground cumin (comino)

2 teaspoons dried oregano

1 medium-size onion, chopped

2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 6-ounce can tomato paste

2 cups water or beef or chicken stock

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Wash peppers. Cover with boiling water; let stand at least

an hour but no longer. Drain and reserve water. Remove

stems, seeds, and veins. In a blender purée peppers, spices,

garlic, and onion with a cup (more if desired for thinner

consistency) of strained soaking water. In a skillet, heat oil

over medium heat; add flour; stir until smooth and golden

brown. Add pepper paste, tomato paste, and remaining

water. Simmer about 30 minutes or until thickened. Sea-

son with salt and pepper.

rather tedious process of constant stirring and watching, so brown at

least a cup each time. Or you can save time by cheating on browned

flour if you buy a package of brown gravy mix as a substitute.

SALSA VERDE WITH GREEN CHILES AND TOMATILLOS

This versatile sauce is excellent for chicken enchiladas, or to use as

a table, or dipping sauce.

Makes 2 Cups

1 13-ounce can tomatillos; or use 8 large fresh,

husked and washed

2 cups fresh green ‘New Mexican Chile’, peeled

and seeded and chopped, or 1 4-ounce can;

measure after chopping

1–2 serranos, seeded (optional)

1–2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed

1 tablespoon cilantro (fresh coriander) leaves,

chopped

2 teaspoons salt

3 teaspoons sugar

If using fresh tomatillos, steam until just tender. Purée

tomatillos with chiles, garlic, cilantro and salt in a food

processor.This can be used as is, or it may be simmered for

a few minutes with a tablespoon of olive or vegetable oil

KING RANCH HOT SAUCE

This legendary sauce is adapted from what is possibly the widest

known of all sauces made in south Texas. It probably originated on

the historic King Ranch, with headquarters in Kleberg County,

Texas, near Kingsville, the county seat and my home town. It is

served with meats, soups, casserole dishes, vegetables—most every-

thing except desserts. Originally, it was made in a molcajete (mor-

tar and pestle) but today a food processor does a good job.

Makes about 4 Cups

1 cup chili pequin (chiltepín) peppers, the tiny

native chili peppers

1½ cups onion, peeled and chopped

4 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped

1 teaspoon salt

114½-ounce can diced tomatoes

½ cup vinegar

1 cup olive oil

Place peppers, onion, and garlic in the bowl of food

processor (do not use a blender); process until thoroughly

ground. Add other ingredients; mix well.This sauce keeps

well under refrigeration in a tightly covered jar. (I think

bacteria are afraid of it.) Beat slightly before using. Handle